How did Vilnius turn out to be such a delight? I will
be honest, I did not expect it to be as pleasant as it was. I expect dowdy,
Soviet architecture, drab streets and moody looking people. What I found was
city bathed in sunlight (during April), with many green urban spaces. There was
something authentic about Vilnius. Its city centre almost felt like a hippy
commune that become commercial. But despite its commerciality it managed to
retain its soul. Imagine interesting pottery designs but 20-something in funky
trainers. Vilnius had a touch of the hipster with an entrepreneurial spirit.
What I loved in particular about was that the streets were clean. It was as if the local authorities knew we would be visiting, called up all the street-cleaners and asked them to tidy up the place especially for me. Long, clean, boulevards, with trees and parks were not an uncommon sites. And no one littered! And no one smoked! I never smelt any cigarette smoke. Even Copenhagen was not that organised with the city overrun by nicotine addicts. In Lithuania they ate their green then cleaned up. Loved it!
Completely starstruck. They lady in the brown coat is Dalia Grybauskaite, the President of Lithuania. I suspected she was a television present when I first saw her, as she looked so trim an proper. A presenter for an antiques programme perhaps, or a social-integration programme. But then I noticed the bodyguards (do you see the men in dark suits - Armani? Gabbana suits perhaps?) and I realised she was someone more impactful. I tried to approach the lady, perhaps try and get a photo with her, but those men in suits looked quite stern. I thought it best to keep my distance from the chic television presenter. That afternoon leafing through a book on Lithuania I spotted this same lady. The President. I should have approached her. She could have given me some tips on where to have dinner. Chez elle peut-etre?
And the moral of the story? Go for it. What's the worst that can happen? Be turned away from well-paid personal bouncers? Surely it cannot be worse than being turned away from actual bouncers in a club you wanted to get into.
The embassies are all located in smart building in the city centre. We passed the Greek and Turkish embassies, which like the geographic proximity of their countries, are next to each other. We passed the French one with its cultural centre and very much true to French form is located opposite an museum.
'I wonder where the British one is' I said to VeryBusy as we did not spot it.
At that very moment a group of British men walked past us, dressed as the cast of Scoobu-Doo or some similar cartoon. They were drinking and making lots of noise.
'I think we just saw it' said VeryBusy.
Definitely worth a visit the Užupio Republic which is a Republic within the centre of Vilnius. It must be tongue-in-check and unrecognised by Lithuania. But it is a interesting concept and much loved by the people of Lithuania. Check out the sculpture of the Angel of Užupis.
From the three Baltic republics, Lithuania was the
least Soviet-ised. Everyone spoke Lithuania and English to varying degrees. The
Soviet authorities instilled fewer Russians in Lithuania, as Lithuanians were
not seen (by the Soviets) of people who would challenge Soviet authority. Because
of this perception Lithuania is more homogeneous and its two Baltic
brother-republic. Contrast this to Tallinn where I met some friendly people who
insisted that they place of origin was the Soviet Union and in Riga, where
almost 33% of the population is Russian-speaking (and probably identify as
Russian as well). With Russia sharing a border with them, it was no wonder once
the Baltics gained independence they scrambled under NATO’s umbrella.