Wine, Sand Dunes and Bicycles in Bordeaux’s Wine Region

It was a Friday afternoon in July and I was sitting with two friends in the middle of a vineyard sipping wine. I could feel the breeze of the wind and polite conversation from other diners. All around us were endless rows of vines like soldiers in formation. Initially I hadn’t wanted to visit Bordeaux and its wine region. But I’m glad I did. And here’s why…

Cheese and no whining. We arrived at Bordeaux just before lunch after an early morning flight from Geneva. Our plan was to see the city before making our way to Bordeaux’s Atlantic coast. Bordeaux’s city center was a 40-minute drive from the airport. We were in town by 1pm. It was perfect timing for a quick meal. Our lunch, under the gaze of a Church, was tapas-like bites of French cheeses, pickles, bread with olive spread and wine. After lunch, having fueled up on French food we made our way for an afternoon stroll through the city.

Water Mirrors. Our first stop on our itinerary of Bordeaux was the ornate square of Palace de la Bourse with the large fountain in its center. Just opposite the square is the Garonne River which leads from the city and widens until it reaches the Atlantic. If it wasn’t for the river you wouldn’t be blamed for mistaking the square for Paris. And steps away from the river is Le Miroir d’Eau (Water Mirror). This is a low-level reflective pool made of granite slabs. It is perfect for young kids to run around in as well as the ideal place to make a splash with selfies for Instagram.

Antiques and Sugary Treats. From the Le Miroir d’Eau it is less than a 15-minute walk to Rue Notre Dame, named after the Cathedral on the street with two tall spires. This street is filled with antique shops, newsagents with walls of candy and fashion magazines, concept stores and coffee shops selling tasty cakes. For under 10 euros we had three cappuccinos and a large piece of cake to share! It is an unmissable street where, even if you do not buy anything, is such a pleasure to experience and stroll through.

Green Parks and Gold Light. We walked back to our hotel through the tree-lined Allée de Chartres then through the Jardin Public. It was late afternoon and the light was at its softest making the stone buildings seem as if they were dipped in gold. The park was full of soccer Moms taking the dogs for a walk, fashionable accountants going out for an aperitif, men working out and teenagers lazing in the sunshine. It was Thursday evening and everyone was in a good mood; if they squinted they could see the weekend.

The City of Wine. The next day we set off for the vineyards of Bordeaux… but not before stopping at the City of Wine (aka the Wine Museum). It is a huge building at the end of the quays of the city that has regenerated the area. The museum’s twisting shape resembled a decanter. At 20 euros (per person) you could learn all about the history of wine. And if you choose not to see the museum at least visit the gift shop. It must be the only gift shop filled with from floor to ceiling. Talk about a hangover!

Sand Dunes. On our second day we made our way to the Atlantic coast to see the tallest sand dune in Europe. The Dune of Pilat is just 60km south of Bordeaux in the Arcachon Bay area. As we approached the dune by car we could see people standing on the dunes’ peak. Initially I was disappointed. The last thing I wanted was the dune to be overrun with tourists. How wrong I was. The dune was a massive collection on sand-hills. There was no way they could have been full of people. Most tourists remained at the area accessible by stairs and closest to the hotels. Rather than take the easy route we accessed the dunes from the beach and scaled them. It was not as easy as it looked. Harder still for me, as I kept rolling down the dune and having to climb up. I was dizzy and tired and got sand everywhere. But I loved it. Some tips: 1) Have a bag for your shoes. They will instantly sink and fill up with sand and carrying them is a hassle. 2) Sand gets hot. Better go when the sun is setting. 3) Take a bottle of water and a camera. The photo opportunities are endless. So are your chances of dehydration!

A Boat trip across the bay. The following day we decided to discover the other side of the bay and visit the small town of Cap Ferret. Driving around the bay from the dunes takes an hour and a half. Rather than lose all this time we jumped on a boat at Le Moulleau for the 20-minute journey to the cape. The cost of a return-trip for one adult is around 13 euros. The boat had to navigate around the elevations of sand in the bay that resembled small, sunken islands. Upon arrival we disembarked and were greeted by teenage boys doing back-flips into the water.

On your bike! We rented a bike for half a day (20 euros per person) and made our way to the tip of the cape for lunch but on our way there we were caught up in sudden rain shower. I always hated being cold, but the rain, lasting less than 10 minutes, was warm and added to our sense of adventure. I had a big smile on my face as I rode, still wet, through the leafy streets and bungalows. There was a languid, relaxed feel to the place, as if it was cut off from the rest of the world. In the town Dads made barbecue in the gardens, moms and daughters were at the market, and boys fished or played sports. It could easily have been mistaken for the Hamptons. The people looked like they had jumped out of a Tommy Hilfiger advert. We got to the lighthouse that was now converted to a museum (6 euros per adult) which has views of the whole bay; of the dunes bathed in golden sunlight, the lush gardens and tree-lined streets and of the vast Atlantic Ocean. After taking in the view we got on our bikes and made our way to lunch where we had seafood, wine or champagne. It was the ideal mini-break filled of adventure, new experiences and delicious food in a part of the world I did not even know offered so much in such a small space.

Best bit of the trip... was getting photobombed by a dog while sipping cocktails by the hotel pool...